Great chest-high waves yesterday too. Especially in the late afternoon. Lots of ripping local microgroms out there of both genders, great to see! No doubt more than a few of them will be making a few rupiah from surfing in a few years. Nice way to make a living :)
I was giving a surf lesson to a grom from Sumba for that sunset sesh, his first ever attempt to surf and he stood up first go! Unbelievable. The very first four waves/whitewater rides of his life and he stood up from start to finish, running the fins of the rented soft top right up into the sand on every ride. The kid is a natural, I didn't really even teach him anything, he just knew what to do instinctively. When he makes the tour, I'll be expecting a cut ;D
Anyway, hope you scored wherever you are. Forecast suggests we'll have fun waves in Bali again tomorrow, around head height+ at the swell magnets (Ulus, Nusa Dua, Balian), chest height for Legian and waist height for Kuta.
Good luck!
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