S U R F - Racing The Racetrack - Uluwatu

This sequence was taken in Oct 2012 on a macking day at Ulus that ended up looking like Hawaii. I snuck out for a coupla cheeky early ones at Racetracks and, as you can see in this sequence, the swell had so much push you could just fly down the line on the surge until the ol' girl stood up and started to deliver. The only downside was the horrendous sweep pushing north; it was a real challenge just to get back in through the cave! Fortunately I managed to negotiate my way back in there, but a South African bodyboarder I met that day wasn't so lucky, he got washed in over the rocks in the bay and copped a bit of a flogging. If you ever find yourself in that situation, might be best to just keep paddling 2km north to Padang-Padang and sneak in there. Apparently there is another little entry point to shore about halfway between Ulus and Padang2, near Thomas Homestay, but you gotta have it pretty sussed to get in there. Anyway, who cares, I'm rambling, enjoy the mind surf :)